Meet Isabel Chung: Fairmont Empress’ first female executive chef

In honour of International Women’s Month, we spoke with Fairmont Empress’ new female executive chef, Isabel Chung. With her passion for sustainability, love for the Pacific Northwest’s rich ingredients, and culinary creativity sharpened over two decades, Chung brings an exciting new energy to one of Victoria’s most renowned dining destinations.

“Fairmont Empress is proud to champion women in the workplace, recognizing their invaluable contributions and fostering an environment where their talents and leadership can thrive,” says Lisa McPhail, director of public relations at the Empress. “By supporting gender diversity, the company is committed to creating a more inclusive and enriching experience for all, where everyone feels inspired to reach their full potential.” McPhail also noted that 64% of the hotel’s key leadership positions are held by women.

Chef Chung is passionate about building the next generation of chefs. She plans to revive the culinary apprenticeship program at Fairmont Empress, mentoring upcoming talents and inspiring them to lead with creativity, responsibility, and a love for food. We sat down with the chef to learn more about her journey and what to expect at the Empress. 

Tell us about your journey to becoming executive chef at Fairmont Empress.

I went to culinary school in Calgary, where I was born and raised, and my first hotel job was as an apprentice third cook at Delta Bow Valley. As a child, I had the opportunity to travel to the Rockies and the PNW and to visit some of our incredible hotels. In 2005, I transferred to Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda, where my love for working for this brand was born. I adore the food resources of the PNW, and it was home for 14 years before the two years I spent in Hawaii. I feel fortunate to be back home.

What is it like to be a woman in the hospitality industry and in the kitchen?

It certainly has evolved during my time in the industry. I have found that having strong supporters, mentors, and working with chefs who believe in you is so important. I have met wonderful people at every hotel where I have worked. Dana Crane, the first female executive chef in our brand in 2012 at Fairmont Waterfront, was one of these role models. I had the opportunity to work with her for a couple of years in Bermuda, and she set the pace for the banquet kitchen; she was the kind of role model I needed at the time, and I cannot be more grateful for the time we spent together and the lessons I took from my time with her. As a female leader in this industry, I take responsibility to ensure that I am supportive and help pave the way for those who will come after me. For this reason, I am a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier, a group of female hospitality leaders committed to ensuring opportunity for future female leaders in our industry.

Have you faced any challenges in the industry for being a woman or in general?

Challenges arise in any chosen industry. There is certainly a challenge in balancing work and life in this field—and the commitment and dedication to want to succeed certainly has to be there. Many in this particular industry would say there is an inherent challenge to being at work when your friends and family are off, be it evenings, weekends, holidays, etc. As a chef in the hotel industry, I know these are some of our busiest times.

Challenges specific to being a woman, there have been some. For myself, it has mostly been individuals who didn’t think I had what it takes to get to the position of executive chef. I have to say I get a certain amount of satisfaction from proving to those who doubted me that they were wrong. I might be a little competitive, which has likely led me to where I am today.

Why Victoria?

Victoria is beautiful! Blessed with Canada's most temperate weather, it was an easy transition from years in the Whistler area and Hawaii. The bounty of the PNW seafood, farmers, ranchers, and other purveyors cannot be understated! This region has some of my favourite food items as natural resources. Halibut, sablefish, Dungeness crab, tomatoes, cherries, and berries, just to touch on a few. I also favour hard apple cider and am stoked to see cideries seeing so much success and a wider audience than ever before!

What can we expect to see on your menu?

Local, local, local. I am passionate about food that reflects the region; that is a true expression of the PNW. The colder waters provide us with so much, and the fertile farmland of BC has so much to offer us. Cherry season is just around the corner, and I cannot wait! 

What excites you the most or makes you more proud about your cooking?

There is something about spring that really excites me for the products that are about to become available—the first buds of the season signal future fruit, the tender sprouts of the coming crop. There is a spring fever that is closely tied to the start of the Morel season, ramps becoming available, and the start of the PNW halibut season. These are a few of my favourite things!

For my cooking, I have strong emotions tied to cooking and some of the first dishes I learned. My father is an excellent cook, and I have some great childhood memories of us cooking and learning together in the kitchen. My mother taught me a few classic Singaporean dishes. Any time I have the opportunity to either eat or make these specialty dishes, it takes me right back to my childhood and this nostalgia.

For those who haven’t dined at the Empress, what do you recommend trying?

For anyone who has not had the opportunity to have Afternoon Tea, you really must! I can remember having tea here at The Empress more than 10 years ago with my in-laws, and there is just something so special about the hospitality of our tea service and the ceremony of having tea. My partner’s family is Scottish-English, so this really resonates with my mother-in-law.

Fairmont Empress
721 Government St.